Machupicchu - 3rd day

It is safe to say that, that night we slept like the dead and were reincarnated into paradise in the morning. The valley was clear and the air crisp with the glaciers on the distant mountains as sharp as glass. In the beginning of the day we traded the stars of the previous night for a shadowy green cosmos decorated with constellations of white and purple flowers. Following the trail through the rain forest we were seduced by trees dripping with green beards and decorated with orchids in every colour that filled us with wonder. However, like Adam in Eve in the Garden of Eden, we were not entirely free of the Serpent’s grasp. Giant tangled knots of lianas, vines and creepers continually threatened to mesmerise us and we had to keep our wits about us to avoid being caught like Mowgli in Kaa’s hypnotic gaze. To reinforce this subliminal warning, later in the day, a bright green snake dropped out of a tree into the path next to us before retreating into the undergrowth! Undaunted we soon discovered Inca tunnels that passed behind cliffs and followed them blindly into Mother Earth’s cool womb. Each time our faith was rewarded as we emerged though a curtain of blazing light that drew back to reveal yet another breathtaking vast vista of mountainous jungle before us. It was truly amazing!

After taking in the views, we slowly made our way down the steep winding centuries old Inca trail that barely held back the thick jungle growth on either side. It’s no surprise that shortly after the Inca’s abandoned the region the trail had became overgrown and concealed by the jungle for centuries, until Hiram Bingham “rediscovered” it in 1911, following it to Machupicchu (where he found to locals living in the ruins). While our morale was high because we’d made it through the strenuous second day, our elation was somewhat dampened by the realisation that we would have to take one step down for every step we’d taken up, and then some more (Machupicchu is lower than Cusco). “What goes up, must come down!” became all too real and this wasn’t helped by the fact that the porters had returned one of our backpacks. The third day’s walk lasted approximately 10hours. Our lunch campsite at Winay Wayna was very hot. After lunch, we were told it would be another hour of downhill and then two kilometres of “flat walking”. Our guide conveniently forgot to mention that that the flat section was along a railway track which was very difficult because you either had to walk on the uneven gravel or step from sleeper to sleeper. Finally, after a long day, we arrived in Aguas Calihentes with wobbly knees at around 6pm and headed straight for the Hot Springs. The hot springs helped our muscles somewhat. We then had a beer and dinner to celebrate the end of the trail!